turnee



(Nd Model.) u

No. 252,277. M

ffy-1 1. -P. TURNER.

CUFP.

Patented Jan. 10,1882.

narran @rares ller-nur arios,

sans e. runnen, 'or freer, new renie, Assieuon To A.. CLARK FELLoWs elor SAME runen. i

srncrnrcnrron forming pari of Leiters .Patent No. 252,277, dated January1o, ieee.

Application tiled August 1.2, 1881. r(No model.)

To all whom it may concern: l whereby the crease will be turned in,leaving Be it known Vthat I, ISAAC YP. TURNER, a the line of seam alonevisible, thus givinga citizenof the United States, residing at Troy,plane facing to `the cuff. f *in the county of Rensselaer land StateofNew With a view' of obviating such defect (le- 5 York, have inventednew and useful Improvetachable cuffs have been made Iwith afront or 55ments in Cuffs, of which the following is a faceormed ofone piece offabric and a back specification. i ol' two separate pieces, each foldedin the mid- This invention relates to that class of ladie, and with thisdouble back stitched to the dies or gentlemens wear known as false frontalong all the outer edges with or withxo or detachable cuffs. f

ln4 the ordinary Way of making these cuil's then turned right side outthrough the long` the fabric is out in the desired shape, and of openspace between the two lapped folded as many thicknesses as required, oneof such edges of the two pieces of theback, and the. thicknesses orpieces forming the face, one the turuedcuif afterward closed bystitching the 15 facing, and the remaining piece or pieces the 'lappedparts of the two pieces of the double 65 interliningz These pieces areplaced together back to the other thickness or thicknesses of with theface and the facing pieces wrongside the cuff; but in a cuff of suchconstruction theA fout, aniLruiLorcoarsely -stitchedftogether--stitehes"-pass through the front or face of the around three of theedges, and then turned cuff, as well as through its hack along thelapout a thicknessof intcrlining, and the cuff 6oy 2o right side outthrough the open oriunstitched ping edges of the two parts of thelatter,so 7o edge`,which is usually designa-ted as the .clos that there willbeone or more rows of stitches ing edge.2 This closing edge is -thenfolded along the face of thec'uif; also, a cui' so coninward andstitched, which.. operation closes structed cannot be iliade with only'two thickthe culi', but in'cut's thus made great care nesses of fabric,and'must'necessaiily be made `25 must be-exercised in turning in theclosing ot'at least three thicknesses, and the inner 75'` edge of the'cuff and skilled workmen emthicknesses of the double back,which servesployed yto perform the operation, otherwise as an interlining, isnecessarily of the same there will be a slack or fullness in the facingfine, thin, and expensivffabric that constiafter the eu has been turnedand finished, tutes the outer surface of the back, whereas 3o wherebythe fahricwill' invariably wrinkle in a much thicker, stiffer, a'udcheaper fabric is i8o laundrying.' Again, a cuff has been made of'generally desirable for the intexlining of cuffs.

seven al thicknesses of woven fabric, of which ln another instance thethicknesses ofthe c ui" the back or front ofthe cud is formed of onehave been cut of di'erent sizes and run, and l piece and thickness,having therein a plait in then held up while stitching, which operation35 which is formed Aa slit. The cuff after heini: involves skill andcare, and, moreover, a` thick- 8,5

v'run all round isturned right side out through4 ness is sometimes leftnnstitched.

this slit, and the plait afterward stitched to a Itis the object of thepresent inven'tiomto' the other thickness or thicknesses ofthe-cuff.take up such slack or fullness of the cuiifinan .i This cuil', however,presents sonic disadvan. entirely novel manner, and to such end I form4o' tages 1in its manufacture, since in turning the a crease or creasesand as eam orseams along 9o plait will usually loose its line of fold,and Vthe facing before the cui is turned, whereby i 4hence refolding isrequired." There will also be sulicient material will be taken up totakeup a line of fold outside ofthe culi', which, when all fullnessafter the c uif has been turned, as stitching the plait after turning,will not be hereiiiafterdescribed and illustrated in ,stl'ie ae- 4 5stitched down, it not being .practicable to run companying drawings, inwhich?- 1 the line of stitching too near .the edge of the 'Figure 1represents the facing side of altiufold. Y ished culi' niade'inaccordance ivithmyinvenf Y It will he seen hereinafter that inthelmanntiou. A Fig. 2 is an enlargedtrans'erse section f facture of cuffsaccording to ,any invention the taken through vthe sameheforeitis'laundried.` 5o' 'crease and seam are compiedhefore turning, Fig, 3illustrates `the it has been run and before it has been turned, the faceand facing in this instance being spread apart so as to form the-seamalong the center of the facing.

Fig. et represents a finished culi with rounded facing, which is usuallyof muslin or other suitable light fabric; and C C, the intermediatepieces, which constitute the intel-linings of the cuff. Tliese pieces'are all cut of equal width,`

and, being superposed with the faceand the facing-pieces wrongside out,are run orcoarsely stitched along their longer or side edges, so as toleave an opening atca'ch end ofthe culi', in order that it may be turnedright side out through either one of these openings. Preparatory to thusturning the cuff, however, I form a crease and seam in the facing-pieceB of thecuff along a line which is at or about midway ofits longer orside edges, the said creases-nd seam being ma'deby spreading'apart theface and facing-pieces of the cuii, as shown in Fig. 3, and forming acrease, D, along or abontalong the center. of the facing-piece, and thenrunning aline ofstitchin g, d, alittle hack ofthe crease, so as to formthe seam cl. After, this crease and seam have been thus formed andstitched and the cu' turned. right side' out through either one of vitsend openingsit will be found'that the crease and seam have taken' upsuflicient'ofthel material of the facing of the cnf4 to take up all ofthe slack or fullness whiehwould otherwise occur.

After the cul 'has'been turned right side out itis turned in at its endsand stitched, as usual,

so' as to form'cordcd edges'along its sides and gutter-seams alongitsends. If; however, it is desired "to avoid' these gutter-seams atthe l`endsof the cuii,'and especiallyin cuffs having roundedends, where itismore desirable to have the end edges presentvthe appearance of the sideedges, so that a uniform inish will be .obtained along the entire edgeof'the cuff, the openings at the ends .of the culi' can be some- 'whatenlarged by notching in the facing B, as shown at E, Figs. 4 and 5,pointed pieces F,. cut.l out somewhat'larger than these openings,

beingrun along their outer edge with the cuit', so lthat after turningthe latter-right side out these pieces can be brought overto cover theopenings, and their diverging-edges bein'g in- Y serted under the ends.of the facing, and the whole then stitched through, as shown in Fig. 4,whereby the 'end edges of the euhc will present the same finish as itsside. edges, and the line o f stitching uecessar)Y to secure the piecesVF will simply give an ornamental appearance at the ends ofthe cuffwithout detractin g from its value.

The depth of the crease or the distance of the seam from the line of thecrease will, of course, be determined by the amount of slack orfullnessito be talee-n up, and', if desired,(in-` steadof a centralcrease, as just described, two

or more of these creases and seams can be formed nearer thcedges of theculi, as showny in Fig. 6.

Cuffs thus made-can be laundried smooth and even without difficulty, andwill have none offthe slack or. fullness pertain-ing lto many of thecuffs now made.

The defect-s'incident to the manufacture of cuffs, as heretofore made,with a view toobviating vthe slack orfullness, as stated .in thepreamble, are also completely avoided, andthe seam d' shown in Figs. l.ande will onlygap-f pear on the facing B, whichwhen the culi' is worn,constitutes the inner side of the same, since the crease and seam areformed before, the cuff is turned, and hence after it is turned thecrease will be on the inner side ofthe facing and the seam on the outerside thereof.

Having thus `described my invention, what I claim isl. The method hereindescribed of-"taking up the slack or. fullness in af-alse or detachablecui?, the same consisting in forming a crease and a seam in the facingbetween its sid-e edges: afterthe thicknesses composingthe cutflhavcbeen run togetherand before turning thesame, substantially as.described.v

2." The methodot' taking up the slack or fullness in the back facing ofa detachable. cuil', the. same consisting in cuttingl the partsot equalwidths, running orv stitching themtogether at'th'e edges of the`saidparts after they.

IOO

are laid together wrong side out, then forming Y a crease along thefacing-piece betweenits edges and muni-nga seam alongthe said crease,vand finally turning'- the cuff' right side lout stantiallyvasdescribed. l

3. As a new article of mann.r aoture, adetaclif thronghvan opening ateither of its ends, sub- 'able cuit: formed-.with a crease ory creasesand 3a seam or seams along its facing between -the :side edges ofthelatter, whereby-thelfullness.- or slack of'thefacing is takenup,{and'wlrenl vturned the seam alone will be visible, substantially asdescribed.

In testimony whercoflhave hereuntoset.

my handin the presence of two. subseribingf .-witneSSeS.. l ,t ISAAC P.TURNER Witnesses:

JAMES L. Nonms, J AMES -A'. RU'rHERFoRD.

yws i IIO

